Shrimp sold as 21/25 count means there are 21 to 25 shrimp in a pound, and that number is the most useful thing on the label for shrimp scampi. Shrimp in that size range are big enough to sear for color before the inside overcooks, and small enough that a pound and a quarter gives everyone five or six pieces. Smaller shrimp cook through in the time it takes to flip them; larger ones cost more and leave fewer per plate.
The rest of the dish is pantry work: garlic, butter, olive oil, white wine, lemon and parsley, tossed with linguine and a splash of the starchy pasta water. Everything happens while the pasta boils, so the total time from cold stove to table is about 20 minutes.
The 20-Minute Plan
The pot of water sets the pace. While it heats, there is time to peel the shrimp if needed, slice the garlic and squeeze the lemon. The shrimp and sauce take about 6 minutes, which fits inside the 9 to 10 minutes the linguine needs once it is in the water.
Fill the pot with hot tap water and cover it with a lid; both make it boil faster. Use about 4 quarts of water for a pound of linguine and salt it once it boils, with about 1 1/2 tablespoons of Diamond Crystal kosher salt. The water should taste pleasantly seasoned, since it flavors the pasta from the inside.
Shrimp Scampi Without Rubbery Shrimp
Shrimp overcook in seconds. The proteins in their flesh tighten rapidly with heat, and once they pass the point of just opaque they turn firm and chewy. The trick is to sear them briefly over high heat, take them out of the pan, make the sauce, and then return them at the end only to warm through.
Cues for perfectly cooked shrimp
- Color: the flesh changes from translucent gray to opaque pink and white.
- Shape: a cooked shrimp curls into a loose C. A tight O shape means it is overcooked.
- Time: 1 minute per side for 21/25 count shrimp in a hot skillet.
- Temperature: the FDA recommends cooking shrimp until the flesh is pearly and opaque; that happens at about 120 to 140°F (49 to 60°C) depending on size.
Pat the shrimp dry before cooking. Thawed frozen shrimp hold a lot of surface water, and wet shrimp will poach in the pan instead of searing. Season them with salt and a pinch of red pepper flakes just before they go in.
Garlic Butter Shrimp Pasta Sauce in Six Minutes
Slice the garlic thin rather than mincing it. Slices cook more evenly, are less likely to burn, and give soft, sweet pieces through the pasta. Cook them over medium heat in the oil left from the shrimp until just golden at the edges, about 1 minute. If the garlic browns too far it turns bitter; pull the pan off the burner for a moment if it is going too fast.
Deglaze with dry white wine and simmer it for 2 minutes to cook off some of the alcohol and concentrate the flavor. Any dry white that you would drink works, such as Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc. If you do not cook with wine, use the same amount of chicken stock with an extra squeeze of lemon.
Then add the butter, lemon juice and a splash of pasta water, and swirl until the butter melts into a cloudy, slightly thickened sauce. The starch in the pasta water helps the butter and liquid stay mixed instead of separating into a greasy layer. Toss in the drained linguine and the shrimp, add more pasta water if it looks dry, and finish with parsley and lemon zest.
Buying and Prepping Shrimp Fast
Most shrimp in American supermarkets have been frozen, including much of what sits thawed at the seafood counter. Buying a bag of frozen raw shrimp is often the better choice: they are frozen soon after harvest and can be thawed when needed. Look for shrimp labeled with the count and the words peeled and deveined to save 10 minutes of work. Shrimp with the tail on look attractive but are awkward to eat in pasta.
To thaw quickly, put the frozen shrimp in a colander and run cold water over them for 5 to 8 minutes, tossing occasionally, until flexible. Avoid warm water, which starts to cook the outside and can let bacteria multiply on the surface.
If the shrimp still have the dark vein along the back, run a small knife along the curve to open it and lift the vein out. It is the digestive tract; eating it is not harmful, but it can be gritty.
Make It
This recipe serves four. Have everything measured before the pasta goes in.
The recipe
Shrimp Scampi
Large shrimp seared quickly, then tossed with linguine in a garlic, white wine, lemon and butter sauce bound with starchy pasta water.
- Prep
- 5 min
- Cook
- 15 min
- Total
- 20 min
- Serves
- 4
Ingredients
Method
- Boil the water. Bring 4 quarts (3.8 L) of water to a boil, covered. Add the salt and the linguine and cook 1 minute less than the package time. Reserve 1 cup pasta water, then drain.
- Sear the shrimp. While the pasta cooks, season the shrimp with salt and red pepper flakes. Heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the shrimp in one layer and cook 1 minute per side, until just pink and opaque. Transfer to a plate.
- Cook the garlic. Lower the heat to medium, add the garlic and cook about 1 minute, until golden at the edges.
- Deglaze. Add the wine and simmer 2 minutes, scraping up any browned bits.
- Make the sauce. Add the butter, lemon juice and 1/4 cup pasta water. Swirl until the butter melts into a cloudy sauce.
- Toss and serve. Add the linguine and shrimp with any juices. Toss for 1 minute over low heat, adding pasta water if dry. Finish with parsley and lemon zest and serve.
Notes
- Leftovers keep up to 2 days refrigerated; reheat gently.
- Replace the wine with chicken stock plus an extra squeeze of lemon if preferred.
Oven temperatures are for conventional ovens; for convection, reduce by about 25°F (15°C).
Leftovers and Easy Changes
Shrimp scampi is best eaten straight away. Leftovers keep for up to 2 days in a covered container in the refrigerator. Reheat in a skillet over medium-low heat with a tablespoon of water, tossing until just warm, so the shrimp do not toughen further.
For a lighter dish, replace half the linguine with zucchini ribbons, adding them with the shrimp for the final minute. For a richer one, stir in 2 tablespoons of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano with the butter, though it is not traditional with seafood in Italian cooking. A handful of halved cherry tomatoes, added with the wine, softens into the sauce and adds sweetness.